Curated routes

Days we put in order

20 days, one area each — first light to last train, in a sequence that actually connects by train and on foot. We walked the order, not just the places.

  1. 01
    Balon Greyjoy / CC0
    CoCreatr / CC BY-SA 2.0
    Oilstreet / CC BY 2.5
    Erol Ahmed / CC0

    Kyoto

    Kyoto Before the Crowds

    Four of the most photographed places in Kyoto, taken in the order that keeps you ahead of the day — starting at a mountain of torii gates that never closes, finishing in a bamboo corridor before eight.

    4 stops · one dayOpen this route →

  2. 02
    Nytm / CC BY-SA 4.0
    vera46 / CC BY 2.0
    Hunini / CC BY-SA 4.0
    Hunini / CC BY-SA 4.0

    South Kyoto

    The Tea Valley Line

    South of the city, where the tea actually grows: terraced hillsides, the only village in the prefecture, the documented birthplace of sencha, and a temple with a heart-shaped window.

    4 stops · one dayOpen this route →

  3. 03
    Arvined Winstud / CC BY-SA 3.0
    Suikotei / CC BY-SA 4.0
    Yiannis Theologos Michellis / CC0
    Hyppolyte de Saint-Rambert / CC BY 4.0

    North Kyoto

    North of Kyoto, Into the Hills

    Up into the hills north of the city — a moss garden you walk onto, a thousand-year nunnery, a forest onsen, and the original shrine of the water god at the top of the valley.

    4 stops · one dayOpen this route →

  4. 04
    Dandy1022 / CC BY-SA 4.0
    Țetcu Mircea Rareș at Romanian Wikipedia / CC BY 2.5
    Ocdp / CC0
    MiNe / CC BY 2.0

    Kamakura

    Kamakura on Foot

    Kamakura on foot, from the Zen temple beside the north station down to the sea — ending at the level crossing where the little Enoden train meets the bay.

    4 stops · one dayOpen this route →

  5. 05
    皓月旗 / CC BY-SA 4.0
    illustration (AI-illustrated)
    illustration (AI-illustrated)

    Okutama, Tokyo

    Tokyo's Wild West

    Still Tokyo, at its far western end: an emerald gorge with a footbridge, a fish ladder you can walk inside, and the oldest sake brewery in the city, on the riverbank.

    3 stops · one dayOpen this route →

  6. 06
    Daderot / CC0
    663highland / CC BY 2.5
    663highland / CC BY-SA 4.0
    Quercus acuta / CC BY-SA 4.0

    Hakone

    The Hakone Round

    The Hakone circuit in one day — the torii standing in the lake, a steaming volcanic valley, a sculpture park in the open air, and a hot spring at the end of it.

    4 stops · one dayOpen this route →

  7. 07
    そらみみ / CC BY-SA 4.0
    lumoplank / CC0
    Sakai Yayoi / CC0
    Sakaori (talk) / CC BY-SA 3.0

    Osaka

    Osaka, Morning to Neon

    Osaka from its oldest shrine at first light to the most famous sign on the canal — with a lantern-lit stone lane and a retro tower in between.

    4 stops · one dayOpen this route →

  8. 08
    663highland / CC BY 2.5
    そらみみ (Soramimi) / CC BY-SA 4.0
    Daniel Gerhard / CC BY-SA 3.0
    小田急4000系ファン / CC0

    Kobe

    Kobe Between Mountain and Sea

    Kobe reads as one slope: Western merchant houses on the hill, a Chinatown you cross in minutes, a herb garden reached by ropeway, and the harbour tower at the bottom of it.

    4 stops · one dayOpen this route →

  9. 09
    Ray in Manila / CC BY 2.0
    663highland / CC BY 2.5
    Rijksmuseum / CC0
    Doricono / CC BY-SA 3.0

    East Tokyo

    The Low City, Dawn to Sunset

    A west-running line across the old low city, timed to the hour each street opens — from a temple hall unlocked before seven, shutters still down along its approach, to a flight of steps named for the sunset.

    4 stops · one dayOpen this route →

  10. 10
    Guilhem Vellut from Annecy, France / CC BY 2.0
    Nesnad / CC BY 4.0
    663highland / CC BY 2.5
    Dick Thomas Johnson from Tokyo, Japan / CC BY 2.0

    Shibuya, Tokyo

    Tokyo, Forest to Rooftop

    Four places, south through the west of Tokyo, the quiet end first: a planted forest soon after it opens, the lawns beside it, an avenue of trees walked downhill, and an open rooftop above it all.

    4 stops · one dayOpen this route →

  11. 11
    そらみみ / CC BY-SA 4.0
    Raita Futo from Tokyo, Japan / CC BY 2.0
    DimiTalen / CC0
    金沢市 / CC BY 2.1 jp

    Kanazawa, Ishikawa

    One Circle Around Kanazawa Castle

    One circle around Kanazawa Castle, each stop taken at the hour that suits it — starting inside a garden while the ticket booths are still shut, ending on the lawn of a museum that stays lit long after its galleries close.

    4 stops · one dayOpen this route →

  12. 12
    Nekosuki / CC BY-SA 4.0
    Guilhem Vellut from Annecy, France / CC BY 2.0
    そらみみ / CC BY-SA 3.0
    Ph0kin / Public domain
    shankar s. / CC BY 2.0

    Nara

    Down Into the Old Capital

    Nara from above, then Nara at street level — a hillside veranda that never closes and never charges, the widest view of the basin you can reach without a ticket at first light, and a half-day walking down into it, ending in the lattice-fronted lanes before noon.

    5 stops · one dayOpen this route →

  13. 13
    Renate Hano / CC BY-SA 4.0
    663highland / CC BY 2.5
    pelican / CC BY-SA 2.0
    663highland / CC BY 2.5
    Kugel~commonswiki / CC BY-SA 4.0

    Naha, Okinawa

    Down the Royal Road

    The Ryukyu court sat on a ridge and its road ran down to the harbour; the day goes the same way — castle gates at eight, soba above the market, kilns in the afternoon, a slope facing the sunset.

    5 stops · one dayOpen this route →

  14. 14
    Fg2 / Public domain
    Houjyou-Minori / CC0
    decade_null / CC BY 2.0
    Insightwm / CC BY-SA 4.0

    Nagasaki

    Nagasaki, Hill to Mountain

    Nagasaki taken as one slope, ending above it: a hillside of period houses open at eight, the church just below it, the hypocentre walked uphill after lunch, and the harbour from a summit deck, reached in daylight and held past dark.

    4 stops · one dayOpen this route →

  15. 15
    MaedaAkihiko / CC BY-SA 4.0
    J.Yoshiiiiiiii / CC BY-SA 4.0
    663highland / CC BY 2.5
    Qurren / CC BY-SA 3.0

    Izumo, Shimane

    The Road West of Izumo

    West out of Izumo and back on the same bus line — a shrine where you clap four times instead of two, dark buckwheat noodles, a stone lighthouse you can climb, and a west-facing beach at sundown.

    4 stops · one dayOpen this route →

  16. 16
    Manishprabhune / CC BY-SA 4.0
    Snap55 / CC BY 3.0
    No machine-readable author provided. Geomr~commonswiki assumed (based on copyright claims). / CC BY-SA 3.0
    Subramaniam K V / CC BY 3.0

    Fuji Five Lakes, Yamanashi

    The Clear Half of a Fuji Day

    Mount Fuji is clearest in the morning and usually behind cloud by midday — a hillside of stone steps before nine, a village of spring water in the late morning, a coaster park once the cloud closes in, and a lakeside promenade to finish.

    4 stops · one dayOpen this route →

  17. 17
    Vitalie Ciubotaru (talk) 16:39, 4 March / CC BY-SA 3.0
    Saigen Jiro / CC0
    bethom33 / CC BY-SA 2.0
    Oilstreet (talk) / CC BY-SA 3.0
    663highland / CC BY 2.5

    Uji, Kyoto

    Two Banks and a Canal

    The quiet bank first, the famous one after — starting at a riverside flower garden that costs nothing, finishing among white storehouses on a canal, where three glasses come with the entry.

    5 stops · one dayOpen this route →

  18. 18
    Kaz Ish / CC BY-SA 3.0
    Aimaimyi / CC BY-SA 3.0
    Zairon / CC BY-SA 4.0
    Kakidai / CC BY-SA 4.0
    Thirteen-fri / CC BY-SA 3.0

    Yokohama

    Yokohama, Garden to Harbour

    Yokohama taken from the garden end — historic buildings carried here from Kyoto and Gifu at nine, dim sum in the Chinatown at midday, a 1930 liner in the afternoon, the bayfront after dark.

    5 stops · one dayOpen this route →

  19. 19
    Bjørn Christian Tørrissen / CC BY-SA 4.0
    アルトクール / CC BY-SA 4.0
    Nkns / CC BY-SA 3.0
    掬茶 / CC BY-SA 4.0

    Sapporo, Hokkaido

    Sapporo's Grid, Then Its Lights

    One day down the Sapporo grid, then above it — a wooden hall from the settlement years the minute its doors open at 8:45, a lane given over to ramen kitchens, a firebreak that became a park twelve blocks long, and a mountain at the end of it, where what matters is being at the foot of the ropeway an hour or so before the sun goes.

    4 stops · one dayOpen this route →

  20. 20
    Yoshio Kohara / CC BY 3.0
    8-hachiro / CC BY-SA 4.0
    663highland / CC BY 2.5
    Saigen Jiro / CC0
    At by At / CC BY-SA 3.0

    Asuka, Nara

    Before Nara, Before Kyoto

    Five stops on the plain of Japan's first capitals — opening on a gravel court at sunrise, turning at a valley of some three hundred stone-walled paddies, and closing in an Edo merchant town of five hundred houses, still lived in. Asuka itself, by rented bicycle.

    5 stops · one dayOpen this route →