Kyoto NW · KiyotakiNo.008Open in map →

Kiyotaki

— the river gorge below Mt. Atago

natureOff the trail — and worth it

A small village in a wooded gorge northwest of Arashiyama, Kyoto, where the clear Kiyotaki River meets the historic pilgrimage trail up Mt. Atago.

Kiyotaki
licensed photographNissy-KITAQ / CC BY-SA 3.0

Kiyotaki is a quiet hamlet in a narrow gorge in the northwest of Kyoto City, where the Kiyotaki River runs green over pale stone. A cluster of old houses and a red torii gate mark the foot of the centuries-old pilgrimage trail up Mt. Atago, the highest peak of the mountains ringing Kyoto at 924 metres. A short detour from the riverside path leads to Kuya-no-taki, a slim waterfall in the Atago foothills still used for takigyo — the practice of standing under cold water as a form of religious training. Sheltered by forest and water, the gorge is a cool retreat in the heat of a Kyoto summer.

Why it stays quiet

There is almost no English signage and it appears on few day-trip lists, so most visitors stop at Takao, the next valley over, or at Arashiyama. Reaching Kiyotaki takes a train plus a local bus, which keeps the crowds away.

Background & history

Mt. Atago has been a centre of Shugendo, a Japanese religion of mountain worship, for roughly 1,300 years. Its Atago Shrine is the head shrine of the many Atago shrines across Japan, all dedicated to protection from fire. Pilgrims have long climbed from Kiyotaki to receive fire-safety charms, most famously during the Sennichi Mairi, a night pilgrimage held from 31 July into 1 August. Kuya-no-taki — about 15 metres high — is named after the mid-Heian-period monk Kuya (903–972), who is traditionally said to have trained here.

What to look for — in walking order

licensed photographNissy-KITAQ / CC BY-SA 3.0
Kiyotaki River gorge
clear green water running over pale rock, with a riverside hiking path alongside
Red torii trailhead
the shrine gate in the village marking the start of the old climb up Mt. Atago
Kuya-no-taki waterfall
a roughly 15-metre fall with a stone torii and Buddhist statues, still used for cold-water religious practice
The old hamlet
a small cluster of houses and bridges tucked into the gorge west of Arashiyama

How to enjoy it

Kiyotaki combines well with the Takao-to-Arashiyama river walk, following the path through the gorge. In summer the cool air by the water is a genuine draw. Add the short side trail to Kuya-no-taki before the longer climb to Atago Shrine at the summit. Buses are infrequent — note the return times at the stop when you arrive.

How to actually get there

From
Kyoto Stn
Time
~50-60 min · bus (infrequent)
Get off at
Kiyotaki bus stop
  1. Kyoto Station → Saga-Arashiyama Station (JR Sagano Line, ~15 min)
  2. Walk to the Hankyu Arashiyama bus terminal (~10 min)
  3. Hankyu Arashiyama → Kiyotaki (Kyoto Bus 92 or 94, ~15 min)
  4. Kiyotaki bus stop → cross the bridge, walk upstream to the torii (~5 min)
JR train + Kyoto Bus
Kyoto Station →(JR Sagano Line, ~15 min)→ Saga-Arashiyama Station. Walk ~10 min to the Hankyu Arashiyama bus terminal, then take Kyoto Bus 92 or 94 toward Kiyotaki →(~15 min)→ Kiyotaki, the last stop. Total ~50-60 min. Kyoto Bus route 72 runs direct from Kyoto Station to Kiyotaki but only a few times a day, mostly in the morning — check the day's timetable before leaving.
return via Arashiyama
Take the Kyoto Bus back from Kiyotaki to the Hankyu Arashiyama terminal, then the train back to Kyoto Station. Buses to Kiyotaki are not frequent and end in the evening — when you arrive, note the return times posted at the stop.
Directions from my location (Google Maps) ↗

Before you go

Cash
Kyoto Bus is a flat fare (about 230 yen); pay in cash or with an IC card. Rural stops rarely take cards, so carry coins.
Closing days
River rocks are slippery and the waterfall is a place of worship, so stay on the path. Go early in the day.
Another way
You can also walk in over the ridge from Takao (about 90 minutes) if the bus times do not line up.
After you get off
From the Kiyotaki bus stop, walk down to the bridge, cross it, and follow the river lane upstream a few minutes to the village and the red torii.

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